Easter in Spain

Over 5000 Spanish towns celebrate the Holy Week leading up to Easter with special cultural activities and street parades.  The “biggest” celebrations are in Andalucia, the southern most region of Spain, but you can find special events everywhere.  Just be prepared for something a little different.


SOUVENIRS:  You will find very few Easter decorations here.  No stuffed rabbits, no cute decorations, no plastic eggs, and very few chocolates.  Some groceries will have a small supply of Lindt rabbits and bakeries sell a bread with a Kinder egg resting in the middle.  That’s about it.  Bacalao is more common now in the markets – a salt crusted dried fish that needs to be rinsed and heated before eating.

PROCESSIONS:  The first time I saw an Easter procession, it was in a painting by Joaquim Sorolla.  Even in oils, it startled me, so it’s good to know before you go.  Spanish (and Portuguese) Easter processions are dominated by “Penitents,” men and women dressed in long robes with pointed hoods, in all colors, but often black.  It is very reminiscent of photos I’ve seen of KKK members, hence the initial shock.  But here, it carries no negative connotations, but only shows a penitent spirit, with people often barefoot through these 4 hour long processions, some carrying crosses, others candles, and some together carrying large, heavy religious statues throughout the parade.

It is pretty safe to say that if you are in Spain from the Thursday before through Easter, that you will have an opportunity to see one of these processions, but here is a list of some that a Spanish newspaper called some of the most special plus Salamanca, the one that I had the privilege to see.   To plan ahead, check the local city websites to find general information on what might be going on and when.  For more details when you arrive, find the local newspaper.  These will show times, descriptions, and parade routes for all the events going on.  Some cities will have 6 parades in one day, all running together.  Some towns will have processions that last 24 hours.  (Coffee and comfortable shoes are recommended.)

My Experience:

SALAMANCA:  Walking near the Plaza Mayor near 6, we saw a procession of purple hooded “penitents” through thick crowds.  Four hours later near the Cathedral, we saw the end of that same parade go by on one side and the beginning looped by on the other.  It is difficult to miss these processions.  Crowds near the Plaza Mayor during the early evening were impossible to penetrate, but by evening, it was easy to get a close up view as the cloaked men and women walked by, some with shoes, some without.  I was there to see the procession of the “Virgen de la Soledad,” the one that begun at midnight and would last 4 hours. 

This parade is really only 45 minutes from beginning to end as you see the black covered pentitents walk by.  They walk slow.  If you come a little early, it is easy to get a “front-row” view on the street.  I found my spot of street at 1130 near the church.

It begins inside the big Cathedral at midnight.  By 1am, it arrives near the entrance of San Esteban where a “virgen” comes out, is met by the procession, and accompanied to the Plaza Mayor.  When “la virgen” arrives at the Plaza Mayor at 2am, all the lights are turned off for a few minutes and everyone begins to sing.  The procession returns to the Cathedral and is over close to 4am.

Newspaper Ranking:

1. SEVILLE*   

It is no mistake that Seville processions are ranked both first and second in this list.  Of all Spanish towns, this one does the Holy Week with the most seriousness and intensity.  Passion parades begin daily at noon from the cathedral plus other churches and brotherhoods all over the city stage their own somber parades carrying large floats with scenes of a blood-stained Christ or a weeping Mary.  These floats can weigh several tons, so float bearers work together taking very small steps, sometimes visible and sometimes hidden under thick curtains.

 

And of all the processions, the highlight is the “Salida de la Hermandad de La Macarena” where thousands of people crowd around the Basilica de la Macarena on Friday night to see the 2500 cloaked participants march past.  Bugles and drums play and the marching goes on for 14 hours.  “La Esperanza Macarena” is one of the last to go by.  It is said that any place is good for views, but the exit at daybreak is one of the most emotional moments.

2.  SEVILLE*  

The “Hermandad del Gran Poder de Sevilla” at the Plaza de San Lorenzo is also on Friday.   This parade is silent with just the sound of the canvas shoes on the ground as the participants march in a special cadence.  Although not on this list, the Passion parade beginning on Thursday night and continuing until Friday morning is also a very special one.  (Click on the link here to see the wiki article and complete list of parades.)

3.  CORDOBA*  

Monday Santo, the Monday before Easter, is great day in Cordoba with several very special processions including one by the Parish of San Lorenzo in that same neighborhood where 17th century statues are carried through the neighborhood. 

4.  JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA*

The largest, most special procession in this Andalucian town in held on Good Friday and called the “del Santísimo Cristo de la Expiración.”   The parade begins late at night when the statue of Christ arrives at the Old Cross in front of the district of San Miguel, then proceeds towards the Hermitage of San Telmo.

5.  MALAGA*

Every Thursday Santo, the Port of Malaga along the southern Spanish coast is transformed into an unexpected altar to receive, among the throngs of thousands of locals and tourists alike, the Christ de Mena from the ships of the Spanish Navy.  In one of the more unique Spanish Easter procession, this Christ statue will proceed from the harbor to the church of Santo Doming.

6.  MURCIA

In the southern most part of the Comunidad Valenciana on the coast of the Mediterranean, Murcia has the most unique Holy Week of this region.  The oldest and most traditional of the Murcian processions is the “Real, muy ilustre, venerable y Antiquísima Archicofradía de la Preciosísima Sangre de Nuestro Señor Jesucristo” also known as the “Coloraos.”  In a two and a half hour procession from the Church of Carmen to the other side of the Segura river, the Nazarenes carry religious images and play on special trumpets.  The end of the bridge is the best place to see this and to get photos.  In this parade, the members hand out candies, beans, and small figures.

7.  HUELVA*

Best procession:  The Madrugá of the Good Friday

8.  JAÉN* 

One of the larger and more joyous processions, over 4000 Nazarenes march and sing during this 11 hour parade.

9. VALLADOLID

The week’s highlight begins at midnight on Thursday and ends on the morning of Good Friday in a beautiful procession that is considered of “cultural interest.”  Thirty-one large “floats” are carried in this procession.  There is also a procession by the calvary which goes only to the sound of a drum. 

10.  MADRID

The capital of Spain is going to have a nice procession and of the many here, the one on Palm Sunday is one of the best.  You can see this one beginning around 4 in the afternoon at the Basilica of San Miguel.  Many will purchase palm leaves and laural branches as a remembrance of Christs entry.  

*Many of the cities above are located fairly close together in the southern Spanish region of Andalucia.  For more information on these and more, look for this and other websites that cover the many cultural and religious events in that area.  The highways between these towns are fairly easy to navigate.

Travel Research:  DK Travel Spain Guide,  DK Madrid, DK Seville and Andalucia

Granada and Beyond

Extreme sports, a lazy beach, city shopping, mountain culture, ensconced in history, filled with architectural wonders, alive with culture, a culinary paradise, this is Granada.

Granada –

Once the independent Emirate of Granada ruled by the Nasrid kings, this modern city of contrasts has a culture unique in Spain.

The Cathedral is immense, bigger on the inside that you can see from the outside.  It took over 180 years to build and is definitely worth a look.  On two sides you’ll find herb sellers.  Medievo sells herbs, teas, chocolates, and delicious local specialties.  The kids will enjoy the suit of armor in the entry.  (Medievo has a nice little brochure with a tourist map in it – a great little map with all the sites listed.  It’s a big help!)

CATHEDRAL (Entrance on Calle Gran Vía de Colón)
Admission price: 3.50 euros	Tel: 958 22 29 59
Monday – Saturday Sundays and holidays	10:45 – 13:30 (summer) / 10:45 – 13:30(winter) 16:00 – 20:00 (summer) / 16:00 – 19:00 (winter) 16:00 – 20:00 (summer) / 16:00 – 19:00 (winter)

Around the Cathedral and the nearby Plaza de Bib Rambla you’ll find shopping and a lot of great little bars and tapas restaurants. In Granada, when you order a beer, it comes with a tapa.  Yes, FREE FOOD.  Sadly, I don’t like beer, but for those that do, this is a win-win.  Some of the tapas platters are really huge.

The Albaicín is my favorite district because it is uniquely Granada, a mix of Spanish and Moorish that you don’t see quite this way in other Andalucian cities.  Even within the old neighborhood there are contrasts.  Wander up the river Darro and you’ll find the old baths, several churches, and a nice string of shops and tea rooms.  It’s quieter on this side of town though and if you venture just a block towards the hill, it is silent.  Even in this touristy district, you can find quiet in the narrow maze of white buildings with a clear view of the Alhambra on the hill above.  Go higher to find Plaza de San Nicolas and the beautiful Church of Santa Isabel La Real.  The noisy area is near San Gregorio towards Via de Colon.  Here it’s like little Morocco – tiny streets tightly lined with tea rooms and shops.  Bright colors, music, noise, crowds, and the smoke of the hookah wafting in the air.  It’s very Morocco here – may be a taste of Tangiers without actually going there.
 

Eat at:

Muglia Indian Restaurant

c/ Joaquin Costa 4 (close to Plaza Nueva)

Tel:  958 221 983

Open:  Every day 1200-1600 and 1900-2400

*Absolutely delicious Indian food and fantastic service.  Unlike many European restaurants, spicy DOES mean spicy. Medium heat is hot and you will need to order a few bottles of water.  My youngest and pickiest eater loved the cheese naan.  The tandoori chicken was a hit with the kids as well.

Ben and Jerry’s -Cafeteria Pasteleria Framit

Acera del Darro 20

Granada

*So I’m not normally a fan of “American food” in Europe, but when you have children and all the Spanish ice cream shops are closed and it’s New Year’s Eve, a little Ben and Jerry’s can’t hurt.  Plus, they have decent coffee and really fancy cones.  

Corte Ingles

Just down the street about 5 blocks from Ben and Jerry’s, this huge Spanish department store has a very nice high end grocery store and bakery in the basement.  Great for picnics!

The Alhambra begs a visit.  Sprawling across the hill above the historic Albaicín, this palace city put Granada on the map.  Plan at least a half day here beginning at the Palacio Real with its stunning walls and ceilings.  The beauty and detail will take your breath away.  TAKE YOUR CAMERA.  LEARN HOW TO USE IT IN LOW LIGHT OR BRING A TRI-POD.  Seriously.  It’s stunning.  You will want photos.  After that you can relax a bit and visit the other parts of the palace city.  The towers of the Alcazaba provide great views of Granada, the Palace of Charles V houses the Museum of Bellas Artes, and once you exit this area, you can wander through the Generalife and gardens for hours.  There are bathrooms and vending machines, but the restaurant within the complex is way overpriced.  Pack snacks, have a picnic in the gardens, or head into town for the beer and free tapas.

You can walk to town from the Alhambra, but it might be a little far for short legs.  Have a map handy and have someone tell you where the tourist buses pick up.  You can take these to the top of the hill at Plaza de San Nicolas and walk through the Albaicín or go to Plaza Nuevo and explore the Cathedral and other Granada districts from there.

Alhambra Tickets:  (http://www.servicaixa.com)  

Type in Alhambra in the search box.  I recommend the General Daytime visit.  Arrive at least 30 minutes early before your entrance time to allow for parking and the printing of your tickets.  Your ticket will also have a specific entrance time to the Palacio Real.  You must enter at this time. 

The Alpujarras

Just 30 minutes south of Granada, you’ll find yourself at the beginning of a vast strand of small white villages clinging to the sides of steep the steep mountain slopes.  Cubist architecture from the days of the Moors, the houses look like sugar cubes from a distance.  If you have the time, these villages are worth seeing.  You won’t find modernity or big city glam.  These towns are very much like they were hundreds of years ago.  Small, and picturesque, you’ll find great shopping, fantastic photo-ops, and probably some decent food.

Lanjaron
One of the larger white villages and the “gateway to the Alpujarras, Lanjaron is actually a great place to stay because of its central location to Granada, the beaches, and the rest of the Alpujarras.  Biking, hiking, and spa/wellness visits are all possible here.  You can also explore the 14C Moorish castle ruin or go on a “treasure hunt” through the narrow streets in town to find the 41 niche shrines and 17 fountains that make this town a little bit different from the rest.  Known throughout Spain for its water which is bottled and sold, go in June to enjoy the  city wide water festival when you must race from one end of the town to the other without getting wet (not really possible) to earn a leg of ham.  The people are very friendly here, but don’t speak a lot of English.  Markets are abundant and there is even a small grocery open on Sundays very close to shrine 39.

To Eat:

Bar Flower – great tapas bar
Cafe Bar Health – recommended by locals

Orgiva
Another larger white village, Orgiva has quick access to the beach, but a longer drive to Granada.  It’s beautiful though and I’ve heard there’s a really great pizzeria along the river.

La Almazara Pizzeria

Avenida González Robles, 53
Orgiva (La Alpujarra)

The High Alpujarras:  Pampaneira, Bubión, and Capileira

Forty five minutes from Granada these “high Alpujarran” villages are nice because they are small, beautiful, and close together, so you can visit all three easily.  From Granada, you’ll drive through both Lanjaron and Orgiva on your way, so it would be quite easy to explore those villages as well especially in the summer months with more daylight.
      Pampaneira is the first of the three and has by far the most shops.  Go here for rugs and really a fabulous assortment of handcrafts.  Jewelry, Moroccan imports of all kinds, pottery… there’s even a chocolate factory.  Walk through it if you like taking pictures.  There are some very pretty streets with canals running through them and nice views of Capileira.

Bar Belezmin

Plaza de la Libertad 9; Pampaneira

*Though the waiter was very sweet, I do not recommend eating here.  Only 1 of 6 of us enjoyed the food.  It came out barely warm and even the pizzas were disgusting.  An ok place for a drink only, watch out, there are a lot of stray cats here and some of them spray.  (I so wish that I was not speaking from experience.  Blech)

Casa del Arte

Across from the front corner of the church near the Plaza de la Libertad

*Love this shop.  He only carries art/crafts from Spanish artists and his prices are amazing!  I saw similar items of lesser quality in Granada and Seville for 4x the price.  Kills me that I didn’t shop more.  Yes, he takes credit cards.  Do look downstairs -there’s more!

“El Tinao” Tienda Bodega

Avenida de la Alpujarra 7

Cool place. Check it out.  Delicious local foods and wines to take home.

      Bubión is the middle village and the quieter of the three. It has some shops and restaurants, but not as many.  The church is pretty though.

      Capileira is where you want to go for lunch with the most restaurants and the best food of the three.  There is shopping here as well and a really nice rug shop with a loom upstairs, so if you’re lucky, you can see the rugs being made right there!  There’s also a very nice leather shop here with beautiful wallets and purses.

Sierra Nevada

Even in the summer, there is enough snow in the Sierra Nevada that skiing is possible for the most adventurous tourists.  Go in the winter though for great skiing 30 minutes from Granada in the Sierra Nevada’s Pradollano, a snow village with lifts taking off from within the village itself taking you over apartment tops to the slopes above.  Everything you need is contained here and parking is ample for those lodging elsewhere. 

Andalus Restaurant Cafeteria

Sierra Nevada, Granada

*One of the best meals of my 12 days Andalucian trip, this place is set in the middle of the ski village, but has great food at really decent prices.  Great service, friendly, speaks English and accepts credit cards.  There are a lot of Italian options on the menu including pizza.  I had a more “local” dish, Pato Confitado, a duck in a mozarabe style sauce.  Absolutely delicious and such a huge portion I could barely finish it.

Sierra Nevadas – http://www.go-sierra-nevada.com/en/sierra_nevada/pradollano.html

Snow Sport Adventure Services – http://www.spanishhighs.co.uk/ski-touring-sierra-nevada.php

Beaches
Snow to sand is possible within an hour, or just spend the entire day at the beach.  Even the dreariest days in Granada are sunny and hot on the coast.

When you cruise south from Granada you first find Motril which is rather boring, but does have a decent Italian restaurant one block from the beach.

Mare E Monti Ristorante

Paseo del Pelaillo 38

Playa Poniente – Motril 18600

Tel:  958 834 091

Salobreña is the next town west sitting up on top of a hill, you can’t miss it.  There you’ll find a church and an old castle ruin among the maze of white homes.  The beach is nice enough and there’s a really nice bakery/ice cream shop just a couple blocks in.

Head west again along the scenic drive along the cliffs to Almuñecar where the coast is scalloped providing a series of very diverse beaches.  This is the best place to go close by.   A mix of sand and rock, the treasure hunter will find smoothed tiles and beach glass among the shells and stones.  Some beaches have nearly white sand and others black.   For a quiet beach go to the local’s beach, the Playa de Cabria east of Almuñecar and lunch at Casa de San Antonio.  For a beach lined with restaurants and quaint shopping areas, go to La Herradura.  This beautiful cove has an old lighthouse on one end and a taking off point for paragliders. 

Restaurante El Bambu

Paseo Maritimo (on the beach itself)

 La Herradura – Almuñecar 18697

Tel:  958 827 227

*Really average not great food.  But, it is ON the beach.  Actually ON the sand.  So, for a drink and a tapa, it’s not bad.

Supermercado Meni

Paseo Maritimo 18

 La Herradura – Almuñecar 18697

*A decent little supermarket with all the essentials that you need.  Just a couple shops away is a really great little cafe/ice cream shop with a bathroom.

Restaurant Casa Antonio

Playa de Cabria

Almuñecar 18690

*Recommended to me by a local, the location is perfect as is the atmosphere and service.  My food was good, but not the best of the trip.  Average.  But still, I’d eat there again just to sit there in the sun on the quiet beach.  It’s nice.

Almuñecar – http://www.almunecar.com/Visitors_Guide/Visitors_Guide_Index.html

Flights:
Iberia Air: Flights to Granada from Dusseldorf, Frankfurt, Amsterdam, and Brussels.
Ryan Air: Flights to Malaga from Maastricht.  Drive 1 1/2 hours to Granada (The drive along the coast is stunning).

Sandeman FREE Walking Tours

Reader Contribution…

Check out the following website for specific cities:  http://www.neweuropetours.eu/

Sandeman offers free, English-speaking walking tours in major cities around Europe.  My father and I took their tour of Amsterdam, and it was incredibly informative and entertaining!  Our guide was very
engaging and was a wealth of information on the history and culture of Amsterdam.  The three-hour tour flew by, and it really was FREE!  Sandeman guides are friendly, insightful and fun!  The guides work for
tips only, so they ensure that their guests have a great time.  We had people of all ages on our tour, and the guide ensured that the pace was appropriate for everyone.  The tours run every day of the year,
rain, snow, or shine.  Of course, you get the obligatory pitch at the end of the tour for some of Sandeman’s specialized paid excursions, but the guides were not pushy about these.  These tours are a great alternative to walking around a city with your nose stuck in a guide book or listening to a recording on a bus as the landmarks whiz by. 

Seville, Spain

Seville.  There is just something about Seville.  A rhythm, a feeling, something in the breeze that lifts you up and carries you away.  Tapas, flamenco, and an intensity of culture that is typical of Andalucia is concentrated here.  It’s a beautiful thing.

Food:  Tapas!  Everything is delicious and the bakeries are much better than their Valencian counterparts.  If you’re not familiar with tapas, let me tell you that it is customary to go for tapas in the same way that you might go “bar-hopping.”  You go to a restaurant for one tapa (a small appetizer – just a taste) and a drink, then go to another restaurant for a different tapa and a drink… and so on.  You can also go to one place, sit, relax, and order a variety of tapas and stay there, but the beginning of tapas was this “traveling meal” of sorts which gives you a great feel for a lot of different places.  Lots of fun if you’re not dragging small children around.  Also, do note that “bar” doesn’t mean the same thing in Spain that it does in the states.  There are many small restaurants – especially tapas places that have “bar” in the title.  They can be very family friendly.

Starbucks 

Calle Campana 2
41001 Sevilla

*This Starbucks is across from La Campana Confiteria and Heladeria (Candies and Ice Creams).  La Campana also serves coffee, so unless you have a hankerin’ for a typical American brew or you need to pick up a souvenir mug, you’re better, more “local” choice would be there.  Either way, it’s one corner with two coffee shops AND a chocolate shop as well.  Nice place to be.

Mesones Serranito

Calle Antonia Diaz 11

Seville

Tel:  954 211 243

*An nice little restaurant near the plaza de Toros, you’ll know this one by the line of bull heads hanging on the wall across from the bar.  The food are portions are good.  The hamburgers come on a nice roll and the Caldereta de Toro is hot, soothing, and delicious.  Authentic atmosphere with great service and credit card friendly, Mesones is a nice place for kids as well.   Bathrooms are clean.

Bar Campanario

Mateos Gago 8

Seville

Tel:  954 564 189
Web:  http://campanario.wordpress.com/

*So of all the tapas places in the Santa Cruz district, the Bar Campanario is probably the most boring as far as ambiance.  It is overly bright and fairly dully decorated.  However, they serve both sweet and savory crepes, provide coloring and books for young children, and offer reasonably quick friendly service, so for families with picky eaters, the lack of ambiance may be worth it.  For the cheese lover, try the Ensalada Cononigos – it is simple, yet fabulous and something that we’ve since repeated at home.  If you don’t like goopy food, I’m warning you now that the Tosta Campanario comes with a very generous, beautifully pink slab of delicious salmon on top of a slice of toast AND an equally generous glob of thick white goo dumped over the entire thing so that next to no pink is showing.  Some might find this delicious.  For the goo-phobic, avoid, or ask for yours “sin salsa.”  Overall, it’s not bad, and if you’re lucky and the right song comes on the radio, the entire crew of waitresses and bar tenders will break out into song and dance.

ay Maricrú

c/ Pasaje de Vila, 6

tel. 954 56 48 24

*A gem adorned in red, this place is just a treasure.  Profusely painted, this little tapas bar embodies Seville with it’s Flamenco skirted lamp shades and fun dotted seat covers.  The service and food won’t disappoint either.  Everything was heavenly.  Really.  The children loved the chicken wings enough to order more and it was sheer willpower that kept me from more goat cheese with raspberry sauce.  Each tapa has its own distinct nearly intoxicating flavor that makes you clamor for more.  And when we did want more, it came quickly, hot and fresh to our table.  Don’t miss this one in the Santa Cruz district.  It is very special.

Shopping:  Nothing is exactly cheap, but the abundance of shops is incredible and not just tacky souvenir junk.  Here in Seville you can find really stunning, high quality things.  The fans and scarves, the dresses, beautiful hair pieces, jewelry.  It’s a Sunday and all the shops are open.  That fact alone is nothing short of miraculous.   And, most shops take credit cards.

Between Calle Campana and the Cathedral in Barrio Santa Cruz lies a cobweb of shop filled pedestrian streets.  They are all fun, but Calle Sierpes is well known and ends at Calle Campana, the intersection with two coffee shops and a chocolate shop.    The Plaza de Jesus de la Pasion has several very nice jewelry shops and dress stores.  

In the Barrio Santa Cruz itself, being the more touristy part of town, you’ll find tons of shops ranging from the touristy lower quality items to quite nice things including several pottery shops and my favorite, Coco Sevilla.

Coco Sevilla

C/Ximenez de Enciso, 2B

41004 Sevilla

Tel:  0034 954 214 532

www.cocosevilla.com

*Coco Sevilla sells old tiles that have come from local buildings.  Some of them are quite old and they range in price from 12 Euros.  You can also find local pottery, hand painted silk fans and scarves, and old local posters and post cards. 

Isabel Parente, ceramics
Plaza de Rull, 3
Sevilla 41002
Tel:  626 963 086
Web:  www.isabelparente.com
*Very special things.  Beautifully made in Sevilla by a local artist.  

Places to See:  Ok, I’ll make a list here of what I saw, but check out this website (http://www.exploreseville.com/sites.htm). It has everything on it including links, hours, and times, so there’s no point in my redoing it all here.  Seville is especially easy because many of the top sites are all within a short walk.  In the old Jewish Quarter, you’ll find the Cathedral, the Alcazar (Moorish Palace), the Archivo de Indios and more.  It’s worth it to grab a little tourist map and start checking things off as you walk by.  Most of the attractions are either inexpensive or free, so that’s nice too.

The Cathedral and Giralda:

Avendida de la Constitucion

Seville 41004

Tel:  0034-954-214-971

Web:  http://catedraldesevilla.es/

The Cathedral began in 1248 on the grounds of Seville’s largest mosque.  Of what we see now, the courtyard of orange trees and the beautiful tower (la Giralda) remain as very distinct pieces of what is now a very Catholic structure.

A UNESCO world heritage site, among the many impressive things here you’ll find a large stuffed crocodile hanging from the ceiling above the reptile door, the tomb of Christopher Columbus, and quite possibly Europe’s only wheelchair friendly church tower.  Yes, the Giralda tower has a spiral ramp that takes you within a very short staircase of the open bell area.  And along the entire stroll, there are doorways where you can stop and admire the view, so strollers and wheelchairs are welcome.

There are three Cathedral entrances.  The Plaza Virgen entrance in the center facing the plaza is for church goers only.  You may enter and stand in a roped off area only.  To tour the Cathedral, you must enter at either the Plaza del Triunfo or orange courtyard entrances.  From there, you will pay a small fee and be given a small map of the Cathedral’s sights.

The Plaza in front of the cathedral is one of the main parking areas for the many horse-drawn carriages available if you’re interested.  Like any large city, the carriage tours are nice, but not cheap.

The Alcazar:   

Patio de Banderas

Tel:  954 502 324

Across the Plaza del Triunfo from the cathedral lies the Reales Alcazares, the old Mudejar palaces and a current vacation home of Spain’s current king and queen.  Though this palace pales in comparison to the Alhambra, it is still absolutely worth going to.  Children are free, so for 7.50/adult, you can tour the palace and gardens.   The gardens are quite extensive and quite beautiful – definitely worth a walk and probably an escape from the sun.

La Juderia (Barrio Santa Cruz):   Expelled from Spain in 1492, there no longer remains evidence of the Jewish people in this neighborhood that bears their name, but unlike many places made melancholy by a sad history, this one comes to life.  In this maze of whitewashed old buildings, cobbled streets, tight corners and narrow alleys, you find streets filled with tourists, tapas bars, and dotted flamenco dresses in gift shop windows.  Flamenco music flows from open windows.  This is the place to catch a show.  A keen eye and you can find some real artists here – pottery and hand-painted silk scarves and fans. 

Plaza de España:  Built in 1929 this is a Plaza like none other.  I wasn’t excited to see it thinking it was just another little monument, but no.  It is an enormity, yet beautifully done and quite inspiring.  Each major town in Spain (and not so major ones) are represented with beautiful ceramic paintings bearing their name and a map showing the town’s location in Spain.  Ceramic pots, bridge-rails, and more.  It’s everywhere.  Walking through the plaza is like taking a painted tour of the country.  You can walk through the columned walkways of the large half-circled building and even go up into the tower balconies.  It’s stunning.  And because of it’s size and openness, it’s a great place for the kids to run and play and talk – this is the perfect antidote to church and museum tours.  Plus, it’s nestled between three main gardens, so the entire area is very kid friendly.

P.S.  Hey, Star Wars fans… Attack of the Clones was filmed partially here!  Natalie Portman walked by these same columns.

Plaza de Toros:  Open to the public to tour, in the summer months, you may be lucky enough to see a bull fight here.  Right near the green river walk, it’s a very pretty.  From here, the Cathedral is only a 10 minute walk (or less.)

Notes:

• You will encounter quite a few Gypsys here in Sevilla.  They come to the main plazas in groups, then spread out with bunches of rosemary to tell your fortune for a coin or two.  Even if you don’t understand a word of Spanish, they will still put a sprig of rosemary in your palm and tell you your life story expecting a payment.  We even had a gypsy try this with my 14 and 5 year old daughters.  Though they are not dangerous, but it is a nuisance.

• Carriages are an expensive, but fun way to tour the city.  You can find them lining the plaza by the Cathedral.  If it’s not and you’re traveling with small children, a carriage ride is a great way to get to the Plaza de España which could be too far for short legs.

• Spain banned smoking from offices, shops, schools, hospitals, cultural centers, and on public transport.  Sadly though, smoking is still legal in restaurants and bars although larger restaurants are supposed to have designated no-smoking areas.  The best way to ensure a less-smokey atmosphere is to go early to lunch or dinner.  Lunch begins at 2-2:30 in most places.  Dinner usually begins at 9. 

Links:

• http://www.exploreseville.com – I love this site!  It has absolutely everything on it and is incredibly organized.  

Lodging:

We stayed in the top floor apartment of Calle Realtor #44 in the Alameda District of the City Center.  It is a 2 bedroom apartment with a fold out couch that comfortably slept 6 (but 3 were small children).  The location is absolutely perfect with a wonderfully spacious balcony that is just for you.  The bakery directly across the street is phenomenal and open every day.  There is also a small bar and a produce stand within 15 feet of the door.  The apartment is clean and well decorated.  Linens are nice.  We had issues with electricity because of the space heaters.  I believe that it would be better during a warmer time of year.  Website:  http://www.alojameensevilla.com 

Cordoba, Spain

Pick up a guide book or peruse a website and you can find a long list of museums and places to see, but for most travelers, the greatest sites are all found within the tiny city center within the old walls that lead into the tiny Jewish quarter.  Here you’ll find the second greatest Mosque in the world, one of only three synagogues left in Spain, the royal palaces, and a very special old neighborhod.  I spent just under 24 hours here and it was enough for the basics.  A day and a half would be perfect and two would ensure your fill of tapas and shopping.

Don’t think though that because it’s small, it should be overlooked.  The Mezquita alone makes the trip worth it and it’s an easy stop in a trip to Granada or Seville.  Shopping is fabulous, souvenirs are special, prices are good, and the food is incredible.

Main Attractions:

La Mezquita – Known as the second most important mosque in the world, Cordoba’s Mezquita is also considered a Cathedral and regular Catholic services are held in the center.  Absolutely amazing, if you see nothing else, this makes it all worth it.  Smaller and more simple than Granada’s Alhambra, the inside of this mosque is beautiful in the simplicity of the arches and columns that repeat themselves throughout the complex.  It is so peaceful there.  Among the Moorish columns and carvings, you’ll also see traditional Catholic chapels on the sides and the main cathedral sanctuary in the center.  An interesting combination of cultures, you’ll want to get there early to enjoy it in the quiet before the rush of afternoon crowds.  The concierge at our hotel across the street said that it was free to enter before 10am.  It was not free at 0830, but it was not expensive either nor crowded, so I was still happy to be there early.

Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos (Fortress of the Christian Kings) – I wasn’t impressed much with the inside of the Alcazar, but it only cost a few Euros to enter and the gardens are spectacular.  It also has Moorish baths and you can take the stairs to the wall and towers as well giving you spectacular views of the city and river.  Beautiful, especially in good weather, the gardens will also allow wiggly children a place to run.

Plaza Triumfo – Just behind La Mezquita is the Plaza Triumfo,  which is essentially a small plaza with a obelisk in the center.  It’s just a photo op, but it also leads you to the old Roman bridge, a pedestrian only bridge on which you can cross the river and enjoy the views of the rushing water.

Synagogue – Free to enter, this is just one of a small handful of synagogues remaining in Spain.  Small and simple, it’s a quick easy visit that won’t take up much of your time, but will add dimension to your tour of this historical center.

Sefarad House – This museum explains the culture of the Sephardi Jews in Cordoba, explains some of the similarities between Judaism and the Islam faiths, and tells a bit of the history of the Jews in that area.  Small and inexpensive to enter, the self-guided tour will take an hour or less if you read everything.

La Juderia – The old Jewish district and location of all these other attractions, the narrow windy streets are charming here and you’ll find so many wonderful shops to explore.  Filigree is inexpensive and one of those special local crafts, so look for some amazing sterling silver and other nice jewelry.
Califhate Baths

For Kids:  We didn’t have time to take advantage of the kids things in Cordoba, but we drove past the park and it looked amazing!!! 

Cordoba Zoo

“Ciudad de los Niños” Children’s Park:  Located at the Parque Cruz Conde near the river, this huge children’s park and playground is open from 1000-2100 October through June and 1000-2300 July through September.  Closed on Mondays.

Hotels:

We stayed at Los Patios, a nice little hotel directly across the street from the mosque and next door to an American burger establishment.   This hotel had mixed reviews online, but we found it clean, comfortable enough, and not at all noisy.  They have a nice breakfast with a 10% discount for hotel guests.  The dining rooms were very nice and the staff were English speaking and very helpful.  They have a nice tourist map at the front desk as well.

Restaurants:

Bodegas Mezquita has two locations both within a block of the Mezquita.   Open all day for drinks, it’s easy to pop in for something quick, but make sure you plan to dine there as well – the food is some of the best I had on our 12 day Andalucian vacation.  Nice atmosphere, free WiFi, and excellent service, this place is kid friendly as well and has a non-smoking section.  You can order a complete menu or just order tapas a la carte which is what we did trying many of the tapas offered and loving each and every one.  The local “Moorish style” meatballs were such a big hit with my 5 year old that I had to order two servings.  The artichokes are also excellent.

With two locations, you should be able to find a table, but going early always helps.  The Cespedes location is one block in from Calle Cardenal Herrero that runs in front of the Mezquita’s main entrance.  On the back side of the Mezquita, you’ll find the other location on Calle Corregidor Luis de la Cerda.  They also run a small bar called Ziryab on San Felipe street just 5 minutes away, which, judging by their restaurant, is probably very good.


Casa El Malacara is more a bar than a restaurant.  It’s very tiny, but quaint and located right at the old wall gate on Calle Judios #2.  Open between traditional meal times when other places are closed, the food is quite good.  We had delicious sandwiches there and drinks.  “Mollete” is the sandwich.  If you like Spanish ham, I highly recommend the mollete de jamon.  It’s simple, but delicious!

Segunto – 25 min from Valencia

25 minutes outside of Valencia lies this amazing ruin looming above the town of Sagunto. A sprawling complex, you can easily spend 2 hours here climbing up and down steps over 2000 years old. The views of Valencia and the Med are fantastic. The place is beautiful. And… it’s FREE! An easy day with the family, you can bring a piknic and spend the entire day.

Hours: Tues – Sat 1000-2000; Sun and holidays 1000-1400

Cost: free

Kid friendly: Yes. This is a place where kids can run and play (with supervision). The ruins are wide open with many old windows and doorways for kids to climb through and play peek a boo or hide and seek. A great place to run. There are; however, several places along the edge where the mountain drops off behind the wall and there are no fences of rails to stop someone from falling. This ruin is fantastic for kids as long as they are being watched and in certain areas. There are a couple places where you will have to keep a close eye on them.

Dog friendly: Dogs are permitted on leashes.

Tours: There were no tours available when we went, but if you are with a large group, tours are available by contacting the museum staff at the bottom of the hill.

Other stuff to see/do: Roman ampitheater, museum, cute pottery shop at the base of the castle hill, and the town itself is very sweet, has nice atmospheric restaurants, cute shops, and a couple nice old churches.

More Photos: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=157494&id=674507268&l=96e8666c87

History From http://www.planetware.com:
“The destruction of Saguntum by the 28-year-old Carthaginian general Hannibal in 219 B.C. sparked off the second Punic War. The

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people of Saguntum had allied themselves with Rome in 221 B.C., although the town lay south of the Ebro in an area which had been recognized, under a treaty of 226 B.C. between Rome and Carthage, as falling within the Carthaginian sphere of influence. Thereupon Hannibal laid siege to the town, until, after holding out for many months, the Saguntines, in despair at receiving no effective assistance from Rome, set fire to the town and burned themselves to death. When Hannibal crossed the Ebro and headed for Italy, however, the Romans took action and in 214 B.C. recaptured the town. The importance of the Saguntum in Roman times is demonstrated by the remains of the theater and other buildings. To the Moors, who were briefly driven out of the town by the Cid in 1099, it was known as Murbiter (from muri veteres, “old walls”), which became Muviedro. In 1874 Alfonso XII was proclaimed king here, and in 1877 the town reverted to its ancient name of Sagunto.

“

Spain Travel Tips

Spain, rich in an intense mix of cultures, foods, colors, castle ruins from BC years. It’s overwhelming and amazing, and sometimes, oh so difficult just because their clock is seemingly from another planet and will not budge much, or ever for the American tourist who is hungry now.

Yes, when planning your trip to Spain, in addition to researching places to go and things to see and do, keep in mind the clock. It will make or break your vacation especially when traveling with children.

Dining Hours: Lunch is typically served from 1430 until 1700. At 1700 restaurants close completely and will not reopen until 2100. Dinner is from 2100 until oh, midnight, 0100… whenever you are full and happy. If you are hungry at noon, you can find a bocadillo (sandwich) shop or grab a pastry or empanada at a patisserie (bakery). Bakeries follow the business hours below and close during the dining hours. Bars serve food all the time, but are often smoky. Unlike Germany, smoking hasn’t been banned from restaurants in Spain. When we want “dinner” and have our children with us, we eat a big lunch at their lunch hour so that essentially we’re full at 5. The 9pm dining experience though may be not what you want for your tired children is not child unfriendly. Families bring their children of all ages. If on a beach, the kids will bring scooters and ride along the boardwalk or play soccer on the beach until the dessert comes. But you will see lots of children at restaurants in Spain at 11pm and later. It is the cultural norm.

Business Hours: Small shops and most services are open from 0900/1000 until 1330/1430. The reopen from 1700-2100. Clearly, you are not meant to shop and eat at the same time in Spain. Grocery stores (Mercadona, Consum, Carrefore, Alcampo) do not close in the afternoon and are generally open from 0900 until 2100. Shopping centers and large stores like Corte Ingles are also open all day.

Local Holidays: It seems, in Spain, that there is a holiday almost daily somewhere. There are as many local holidays as national holidays including small village celebrations like bull runs and festivals. When planning your trip, try to find out if there are any local holidays during that time. They could enhance or hinder your time. Holidays bring crowds (especially in Barcelona!), but small local holidays can add a special bit of culture to your vacation. Look for parades and ferias. Most larger towns in Spain have a Feria sometime between April and September – days or weeks of celebrations, parades, fireworks, and fairs. For some festivals, you need to book rooms months in advance to have a place, so do plan ahead.

Language Barrier: I’ve heard that Spain has the lowest English ability in western Europe and from living here, I can believe it. Even in the big city, most of the people that I run into do not speak English. People are very friendly and helpful, but it helps to know some basic phrases. Barcelona and Madrid, with more tourists, do have a lot more English speakers.

Roads: This country is OLD. And with age come two-lane roads not quite big enough for one. If you are renting a car, get the smallest one you can fit into. If you are coming with a group, know that a 9 passenger VW is going to be a challenge when touring old mountain villages and the old city centers of even the most modern cities. Scraped door panels and broken mirrors are all part of the experience, right? The highways are easy. Many roads are better than many local German roads… but do beware of the older areas. Park and walk when you can.

Beaches/Towns: Unlike the states where the towns line the beaches, generally, in Spain the towns are a couple miles inland and the beaches are lines with vacation homes, apartment complexes, a couple shops, and restaurants that are open exactly when you aren’t hungry. If you want to tour a town, know that the beach is a drive, not a walk away.

A local Spanish bull run…

Bulls in Spain are not limited to the bullring, nor do they run only in Pamplona. Many small villages throughout Spain have small events where you can get up close and personal with a bull or two.

Large wooden barricades block off the streets to form a cage several city blocks long. People put up thick iron bars to block recessed doorways and ladders over windows not to protect the windows, but to climb up the ladders if the bull gets close.

In my village, they released three bulls, one at a time, then 6 cows the same way. A break for dinner, then they do it all again with cups on the ends of the horns lit on fire, so that you can see them, horns ablaze in the dark. The festivities here start at 5:30pm and continue until 4am.

Every place will be different, but it’s an incredible experience. Here are a few basics to remember.

1. Children are not allowed to be inside the area when the bulls are released. Young children should not even sit on the barricades. The bulls are fast and extremely dangerous.

2. If you are watching from behind the barricades, you still need to be careful. There is enough space between the wooden slats that the bull’s entire horn can get through. You’ll need to be able to back up quickly.

3. The barricades are used as bleachers for the guys wanting to run, so they’ll jump off of them, run after the bull, then when the bull has turned and is headed toward the barricades, the men run, and climb up them quickly. Watch fingers and long camera lenses. And don’t be upset if you get dirt in your hair from those nasty shoes or if a man jumps through the barricade into your lap to avoid an angry bull. These things happen. Just roll with it.

4. You can’t always find a bathroom during a bull run event. Plan ahead or be comfortable with trees.

5. This is a man’s event. I didn’t see one women inside the barricade. In some villages a handful of woman may participate, but it isn’t common. Understand that if you are a woman inside the barricade, them men may try to protect you or try to convince you to move to a safer area.

6. There are always emergency services available as serious injuries can and do occur.

Lodging: Valencia, Spain

Residencial El Oasis

Calle Oasis, 1
46183 L’Eliana
Valencia, Spain
tel: +34 96 275 04 61
fax: +34 96 165 65 05
el-oasis@el-oasis.com
www.el-oasis.com

We love this place, which is good. We stayed here a month!

The bungalows are spacious and comfortable though a bit outdated. We have a 4 bedroom with beds for 7 and two sofas. The kitchen is large and decently stocked. There are two nice patios – one in front and one on the back with a full dining table for outdoor eating. 2 bathrooms, a washing machine (no dryer, just drying racks), ironing board and iron, microwave, with all linens provided. There’s television and WIFI. Outside is a large Spanish style grill as well.

The grounds are full of palms, pines, and nicely landscaped gardens. Here, you’ll find two swimming pools, a hot tub, a trampoline, a gym with a sauna, a ping pong table, tennis courts, plenty of patio seating and lounge chairs, badminton, bicycles, and a bar selling ice cream, chips, and drinks.

The staff are all very friendly and helpful. Housekeeping is provided once a week. The information booklet is quite good. Great for use as a TLF facility on your way in or out of the area or as a vacation spot on a trip to Valencia.

Cancellations and changes to existing reservations must be made at least 2 weeks before you arrive, or you will be responsible for payment for all the days booked whether you stay or not. There is a NATO rate available.

Bike Tours

Reader Recommendation…

One reader enjoyed her bike tour of Versaille so much that she was kind enough to pass along her recommendation for Fat Tire Bike Tours! An American owned and run company with tours in English, these bike tours are available in Paris, London, Berlin, and Barcelona! What a great way to see a city!

Child friendly, Fat Tire Bike tours have child seats, child trailers, and helmets available at no extra charge and have a discounted youth rate for children big enough to ride on their own!

http://fattirebiketours.com
http://fattirebiketours.com/paris

http://fattirebiketours.com/barcelona
http://fattirebiketours.com/berlin
http://fattirebiketours.com/london